Wednesday, 8 August 2012

Cutting and fixing joist 8/8/2012


Boundry joist were laid on the outside of the framing. Marked every 450mm, then clamped to the bearers and tacked to stop the frame from shifting. Making sure to put the nails in on an angle to give it more strength. Once up and flush, we quickly done our parellels and diagonals to make sure we were on the mark. We then measured the inside width and cut our joist to fit. Setting them on our 450mm marks, 32 in total were cut-placed and tacked in. Leaving it as a floating frame so if we were out, we could shift it with out having to pull lots of nails out. We then go back to our datum to set up our string lines on our boundry joist to take the bows out and make it a true straight line. Once straight, we checked our parellels and diagonals again, just to make sure. We were 5mm out so shuffled it around and got it bang on. From there we added braces/dwangs for our wall frames and place strategically to resist horizontal forces. Measuring where the showers is to go, we cut out a section of the joist and placed a trimming joist so we had a box like shape. So with all the joist done, squaring and straighting, the boundry joist were then nailed home from the tacks before. Anchoring it to the bearers and securing the foundations.







-Use galvinised nails, they dont rust
-Joist on average sit 450mm apart, maximum is 600mm
-Always tack in your big jobs before nailing them home, easier to correct yourself than pull them all out
-Make sure your parellels and diagonals are correct
-Building isnt a game nor should it be rushed. Take your time and make the effort-craftsmanship

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