Eve Flashings 5/12/2012

With shortened bits of flashings made especially for the eves, we had to look at how we were to cut and set them so the sat flush up against the facia (all bits like this arent the same so thinking on top of your head is needed) We had to measure down how far and how much along then put that onto the flashing and check it out. Once done, we had to run a flat flashing from the top of the roof down to the bottom (new regulation) this stops any moisture from entering. Before it was lifted up, the tex screws had to come out where it was going to sit. Liftinf it up (being careful) we laid it down and went through and marked where the tex screws were to go. 100mm regulations for the over/under lap

Roof Flashings 5/12/2012

The flashings on thew side of the roof had to go up, as well as the capping the eve. Lifting the flashings up, taking into contrast that the flashings are thin and flimsy and to take very good care lifting them. We got the first one up, sat it on the edge and pushed it 100mm over the front. We then measured 60mm back on the top, leaving the side clear, we cut the top part off. With the side now sticking 60mm out, we measured back 30mm and bent it so when the flashing was pushed back into place the flashing lip would sit flush against the facia. The next peice we lapped under the first so when it rains the water will run down not getting trapped or sepping under one another (100mm minimum required). We left the bottom of the flashing free so when we put the spouting up, we can contrats on how to cut and bend the angles. It was all screwed down with hex tex screws with a rubber ring under so when drilled down, the rubber ring will sell it from any moisture. Silicone will so be put in the barge where the flashings meet

Window Strips 3/12/2012

Strips of weather board with a half round curve at the top were ripped at 43mm, they had to be checked out into the weather and lay flush uo against the window frames. Laying the strips next to the window frame, a nail was tacked in at the bottom to keep it still. An off cut of weather board no shorter than 300m was used to mark out the measurements. Laying the off cut flat against the wall and hard up against the strip, we marked from top to bottom (end product looks like a lightning bolt) The little straight bits were then cut with a jigsaw, the long angle parts were cut with the band saw. Wed then go back and sit it into position, sitting it flush and marking out where it would check into the window flashing and flush with the bottom. Both sides of the window had to be done all around the house. Doing this will stop rain and moisture entering from the side of the windows.

Weather Boards 20/11/2012

With all the windows in, checked for plumb and square. The foam around the edges had been put in, we now had to go on to the outside of the windows and fit the flashings. The weather board had to be cut to size as the plans say. We then measured out the top of the window and cut the flashing to hang 40mm over each side. We then measured and marked on the piece of weather board so it looks like a big T. Cutting it with a skill saw (on a 5degree angle for the flashing) Once cut, we took it up and tried the flashing in and sat in place, right on the mark first time. A piece of building wrap was then taped to where the flashing would sit so if rain did some how get behind the board, it would run down the building wrap and onto the flashing. We then painted the cut areas to seal them from moisture then nailed into place. With the flashing done, we could then do the rest to the top of the soffit. On the side of the house made it abit more difficult. We measured 150mm in between each board, so we set our squares at 150mm, and slide it along till we butted into the soffit, this giving us a reading as to where the new board would finish. We'd then measure to where the top of the board butts into the soffit and that gap would mean the angle we would cut on and the over all length was measured to. So it could of gone 2100mm long, 1500mm along till the top of the board butts in, then we would cut from there down onto the angle into the corner of the board. We done both sides of the house right upto the soffit, then moved around to the back to do the last few boards there too. Leaving just the front to put a couple more rows of boards up. We had a crew of 3 coming behind us and drilling, then nailing home the boards. And team was puting up more cavity batterns with others following behind and putting up the etapan.

Little Jobs To Be Had 13/11/2012

We put foam in between the windows frames and wall frames. This stops any drafts coming through and when the expanding foam is emitted, it wont make a mess and go everywhere. Cutting to length, then butting the foam string in with the end of the ruler going 50mm in making sure no foam had brakes in it. All windows were done then re-checked. It also gave us another chance to make sure the windows were plumb and flush. The glaziers came in again and finished off the rest of the windows. With the big window/door frame that is going in, all the cuts had to be re-sealed with paint again. The frame was then held into place and screw tacked in. The back door/laundry door had to have dwangs put directly under the door itself, giving it more strenght and to stop warping and weak points. Spare joists were cut to size then nailed to the outside boundary joist. Some of the etapan went up today. The location was measured then 1omm either side was taken off. The etapan was then cut to size and holes were drilled for where the nails were to go. Top flashing were also measured and cut for all the windows, ready to be nailed on.

Checking Windows 12/11/2012

 

Had to check over the windows to make sure they were plumband the gaps on the sides were even. Using a spirit level, we soon found one that was out by a bit at the top and had a bow in it. The screws that were tacked in had to come out, where 2 spirit levels were laid on the sides, new holes were drilled and re screwed. The top had packers pushed in to take the out. One by one all windows were straightend and corrected. The main window/door frame was lifted into place today, but soon found we had to make an alteration. A strip of the floor board had to be stripped back, then the floor joist, boundary joist and weather board, had to be shaved back 50mm. The boundary joist was cut with a skill saw, the floor joist had several cuts put in to depth then chiseled back and made flat. The frame was then put into place to check if anymore needed taking out, all was right.

Installing Windows 7/11/2012

 

With the flashings all installed in every sill, rippings cut to length and nailed to the outside tops of the window cavertys. We now had the day to install every window frame in the house, thus making it 1 step closer to being lockable over the christmas holidays. The windows plan sheet was looked over to make sure nothing was left out and to get the right window in the right hole. It took a team of 4-5 people to install just 1 window. And once all the windows were up, we could then finish off the outside weather boards and soffit.

-window lifted and put into place
-clamps were used to pull the bottom in hard and flush
-with 2 rulers, the window had to sit 10mm out so they butt in flush with the gibb
-once worked out that the window sat evenly in the hole, the bottom right hand was drilled and screwed (leaving the screw tacked in)
-a spirit level was used to make sure it was plumb and flush
-making sure it was 10mm out in every corner
-screws were placed in every corner

Not every window went in as planned, some flashings had there cornners re-trimmed because the window frame would catch on them. Any cutting to the window frame itself had to be painted and sealed to prevent it from soaking up any moisture. Making sure the window was straight and plumb was a very big factor. A window that is off is very easy to spot from a far, one by one the window frames were installed. With Cam have the final check over before each window was screwed home.

Windows And Flashings 6/11/2012

 

The flashings had to be installed today and the windows fitted and nailed because on thursday, the glasziers were coming in to fi the glass. So cam pulled a bunch of us a side and showed us how to cut and install a flashing for a window sill. Once done, teams of us went off and done our own.

-measure 45mm in and mark all the way down
-cut the 2 angle's (cutting the bottom strand off)
-using the bending pliers, set the grip and bend so the cut pieces are nice and straight when butted into eachother
-cutting the tips on a slight angle so they wont catch when installing
-do the same as down the other end
-cut a sliver out of the inside of the weather board so the flashing can be pushed through and sit flush
-once pushed in, sit the 2 bits of timber (nailed together for the window to sit on)
-when sitting flush, pack out 10mm, drill and nail with clouts

Flashings are designed to catch the moisture from under the window and stop water from sitting and creating mould/dampness. Every window that had etapan under it had to be packed out 10mm off the timber. Other windows had to sit flush. Silicone was put in the corners of the flashings to make them air tight and make sure no drafts come through because you can loose alot of heat through your windows themselves. Clouts are used because of there flats heads and sit hard against the tin. Windows started to be installed, rippings were cut and nailed on the outside, flush with the top of the windows sill.

Weather Boards/Electric Box 17/10/2012

Measurements were marked on the edge of the weather boards, 400mm in and 400mm up, creating a T section and giving us an indication as to where the nails will go. Once drilled, nails were hammerd in then nail punched below the surface. This was done on every edge and down every stud, drilled, nailed, nail punched. The holes had to be drilled because the nail itself would put stress on the weather board (very hard and durable) and could fracture the board itself. Cavity batterns were cut and nailed to the underside of certain windows for where the cladding is to sit. The cavity batterns were set 600mm apart with ones on either end. A spirit level wsas used to keep plumb.

The electrical box had to be installed. With a cavity in the wall, we put the electric box in there and it fitted flush. What we had to do was get 4 bits of steel-cut, bend and pop rivet to the box but making sure it was tight and plumb. Cutting one corner back leaving the top on, will give us an overlapping effect. Drilling then pop rivet it into place (placing silicone in between) Once all riveted on, silicone was smeared to keep any gaps/drafts out. We placed the box into its cavity hole, drilled and nailed to the studs. The weather boards around it had to be cut to certain lenghts. With rippings taken out to sit the weather boards flush with the box.

Once the whole back of the house had 3/4s of the weather boards up, we went around and punched all the nails in so they weren't exposed. Then going over the holes with exterior putty. So when it came time to paint the weather boards, it will look smooth and un-marked. The timber for around the bottom of the showers where the gibb meets the shower base had to be cut and fit. Give them something to into later on down the track. Also where the door go, boards had to run vertical so they can screw there hinge's in.

We still have 1/4 of the weather boards to go up (top boards that butt into the soffit) The cladding boards had been made but everything waits for the windows to go up.

Weather Boards 25/09/2012

Window holes had to be cut (in a x type so the building wrap could lay over the sill) and stappled back. Orange butterflies were stappled into the corners to keep them clean then Aliband was laid down. 300mm up the sides from the bottom (with the whole bottom covered) and the same with the top, with 600mm strips placed diagonaly over the corners. Aliband is a bitchum based strip, it purpose is to stop moisture getting in and roting the windows sills. A storey rod (markings on a long thin bit of timber with marks for where the weather boards are to go) was made and a team of guys went around and marked every half of the house. Holding the storey rod at the bottom plate of the building, knowing that they would all line up and be plumb. Then a team of 2 would come around and using a chalk line, holding it on oppisite marks, the chalk line was pinged giving us an indercation where the boards are to sit up against. Cavity closer (K-strip) was also nailed to the surrounding bottom bearer (50mm down from bottom plate) also made to stop moisture/rain coming up underneath the weather boards. Each sector of the house was measured and noted for where the weather boards would have to be cut. They were labeld ABC etc, and also written on the outside plans so there would be no confusion.

-The weather boards were then measured (longest first) cut then labeld
-The cut ends were then painted (to stop moisture seeping in)
-Stacked out side the part of the house they were for, sitting on pegs so they didnt get stone impressions on them
-With and air compressed nail gun, butting the weather board into the chalk line then nailing one corner
-From the corner, working our way along the board straighting and nailing (often putting the spirit level on top to double check)

One by one the boards were cut, painted and stacked waiting to be nailed on. We had a constent flow going all day. Extra little cuts had to be made for the winws/door ways. By the end of the day we had put up quite a few. Looking more like a house now.

Dwangs and Soffit 24/09/2012

 With the building wraped up by Cam and Mark over the weekend (first type over water proof wrap in NZ being tested on our house) dwangs and soffit had to go up today. Along the whole top plate of the inside of the house, dwangs had to be measured and cut so when the gibb board goes up, it has centres to drill in too. In every room, kitchen, bathroom and lounge, dwangs had to fill the gaps. So in teams, people marked, cut then nailed. Once almost done, another team started on the soffits on the outside of the house. Firstly, running boards were put up around the top where the frames meet the over hang from the roof. All were nailed then gone through again with a string line and dodgem blocked so there were no bends. Because banging a soffit onto a bent running board will be very noticable. So packers were used when needed. With that done, we got stuck into the soffit

-Measuring every 300mm long and 35mm in, the marks would cross over indercating where the nail would sit
-Lifting it up, holding one end into the fascia butt
-Once slid in, the other side was lifted flush with the running board
-Tapped at one end with a hammer and a block of wood (stops crushing and braking the soffit)
-A white inverter added at the end so the next soffit can butt in to another

Ceiling rafters were next on the list but with time running out, we managed to chalk line where the runs were to sit. Every bit of ceiling space had to be measured and chalked out.

Roofing 12/09/2012

The rest of the fascia's had to be measured and cut, run an eye down them to make sure they were flush and fix any raises/slumps. Once the whole house was incased with the fascia and all was good, we nailed them home and hole punched them back a little. Next step was the roofing, after a quick smoko Cam ran down over the plan then we put it to action. We done the flashing on the tailing side of the house (to help keep the rain out) We put down 8 rolls of roofing paper up into position (running horisontal, over lapping 150mm and 60mm on the edge for over hang) rolling out abit at a time. The first sheet of iron was lifted up, laid flush with the fascia and hung 60mm over the edge (for water to fall off into the spout-60mm regulation) Once all was lined up, a screw was placed 130mm back (into the purlin) on the bottom right corner then one in the top right corner (just 2 tex screws for now) We went through sheet by sheet, just putting on the end tex screws. We got 3/4s of the way through and took a measurement at each end of the roofing sheets to find we were 10mm out on one end. So with 5 sheets left to put up, we moved the butt out every 2mm each time. Once we got to end, we were bang on the mark. And just as we put the last screw in, the rain came down.

We waited til the rain died down then the next stage was to find where the purlins laid under neither, and mark out where the tex screws would go in. Normaly you would use a chalk line but we done it the old fashion, with string line

-run a string line from end to half way Directly over the purlin)
-marked every rise on the edge of the house and every 2nd rise in the middle
-peers went along and put starter holes in
-another team came along and drilled the tex screws in

Roofing isnt just putting some iron down. There are certain rules that everyone has to follow. The roofing paper 150mm over lap and horizontal so if the rain does get through, itl run down to the bottom. With a 60mm hang over so the rain can't come back up, flashing to keep the moisture out. Tex screws every rise on the the outsides so the wind can't pick it up and rip it off. Up turning the outrigger ends so when the wind blows, it can't run up and over into the purlins/walls. Tex screws have a rubber on the bottom of the head so when screwed in, it makes it water tight from rain. When finding your 60mm off the fascia for the roofing over hang, put you square on the rise, rule on the fascia and push down so the roofing is hard flush on the purlin giving you a true reading. Don't use pencil either, the lead in the pencil can rust it-go figure.

Fascia re-aligned, mesh laid 11/09/2012

Fascia's re-aligned, netting laid down and building paper measured and cut for the next step. Fascia's that hadn't been fitted had to be measured out with the slope of the roof taken into consideration for when the corners butt into one another. But first things first, we went through and ran our eye down the facia's that have been put up and had to take out the dips/raises out. To do this, we had to pull out the nails and use a clamp (with a bit of off cut wood) was placed between the clamp and fascia with the other end of the clamp sitting on the blocking (between purlins) and was wound up/down to which way we needed. Then nails were tacked in, one above another for extra strength.

Using the drop saw, the saw had to be titled on a 45' angle for them to butt into eachother and 5' on the drop to compensate for the slant of the roof. The mesh went up, rolled from side to side, they were stapled down to the purlins. At the ends by of the roof, it was stapled 4-5 time in one spot. Then nipped off just after the intertwins then folded back and stappled again. That way, there were no fraley bits to snap anything on. The next step was to put the roof on but due to poor weather conditions, the building  paper and iron had to wait till a later date.