Weather Boards 25/09/2012

Window holes had to be cut (in a x type so the building wrap could lay over the sill) and stappled back. Orange butterflies were stappled into the corners to keep them clean then Aliband was laid down. 300mm up the sides from the bottom (with the whole bottom covered) and the same with the top, with 600mm strips placed diagonaly over the corners. Aliband is a bitchum based strip, it purpose is to stop moisture getting in and roting the windows sills. A storey rod (markings on a long thin bit of timber with marks for where the weather boards are to go) was made and a team of guys went around and marked every half of the house. Holding the storey rod at the bottom plate of the building, knowing that they would all line up and be plumb. Then a team of 2 would come around and using a chalk line, holding it on oppisite marks, the chalk line was pinged giving us an indercation where the boards are to sit up against. Cavity closer (K-strip) was also nailed to the surrounding bottom bearer (50mm down from bottom plate) also made to stop moisture/rain coming up underneath the weather boards. Each sector of the house was measured and noted for where the weather boards would have to be cut. They were labeld ABC etc, and also written on the outside plans so there would be no confusion.

-The weather boards were then measured (longest first) cut then labeld
-The cut ends were then painted (to stop moisture seeping in)
-Stacked out side the part of the house they were for, sitting on pegs so they didnt get stone impressions on them
-With and air compressed nail gun, butting the weather board into the chalk line then nailing one corner
-From the corner, working our way along the board straighting and nailing (often putting the spirit level on top to double check)

One by one the boards were cut, painted and stacked waiting to be nailed on. We had a constent flow going all day. Extra little cuts had to be made for the winws/door ways. By the end of the day we had put up quite a few. Looking more like a house now.

Dwangs and Soffit 24/09/2012

 With the building wraped up by Cam and Mark over the weekend (first type over water proof wrap in NZ being tested on our house) dwangs and soffit had to go up today. Along the whole top plate of the inside of the house, dwangs had to be measured and cut so when the gibb board goes up, it has centres to drill in too. In every room, kitchen, bathroom and lounge, dwangs had to fill the gaps. So in teams, people marked, cut then nailed. Once almost done, another team started on the soffits on the outside of the house. Firstly, running boards were put up around the top where the frames meet the over hang from the roof. All were nailed then gone through again with a string line and dodgem blocked so there were no bends. Because banging a soffit onto a bent running board will be very noticable. So packers were used when needed. With that done, we got stuck into the soffit

-Measuring every 300mm long and 35mm in, the marks would cross over indercating where the nail would sit
-Lifting it up, holding one end into the fascia butt
-Once slid in, the other side was lifted flush with the running board
-Tapped at one end with a hammer and a block of wood (stops crushing and braking the soffit)
-A white inverter added at the end so the next soffit can butt in to another

Ceiling rafters were next on the list but with time running out, we managed to chalk line where the runs were to sit. Every bit of ceiling space had to be measured and chalked out.

Roofing 12/09/2012

The rest of the fascia's had to be measured and cut, run an eye down them to make sure they were flush and fix any raises/slumps. Once the whole house was incased with the fascia and all was good, we nailed them home and hole punched them back a little. Next step was the roofing, after a quick smoko Cam ran down over the plan then we put it to action. We done the flashing on the tailing side of the house (to help keep the rain out) We put down 8 rolls of roofing paper up into position (running horisontal, over lapping 150mm and 60mm on the edge for over hang) rolling out abit at a time. The first sheet of iron was lifted up, laid flush with the fascia and hung 60mm over the edge (for water to fall off into the spout-60mm regulation) Once all was lined up, a screw was placed 130mm back (into the purlin) on the bottom right corner then one in the top right corner (just 2 tex screws for now) We went through sheet by sheet, just putting on the end tex screws. We got 3/4s of the way through and took a measurement at each end of the roofing sheets to find we were 10mm out on one end. So with 5 sheets left to put up, we moved the butt out every 2mm each time. Once we got to end, we were bang on the mark. And just as we put the last screw in, the rain came down.

We waited til the rain died down then the next stage was to find where the purlins laid under neither, and mark out where the tex screws would go in. Normaly you would use a chalk line but we done it the old fashion, with string line

-run a string line from end to half way Directly over the purlin)
-marked every rise on the edge of the house and every 2nd rise in the middle
-peers went along and put starter holes in
-another team came along and drilled the tex screws in

Roofing isnt just putting some iron down. There are certain rules that everyone has to follow. The roofing paper 150mm over lap and horizontal so if the rain does get through, itl run down to the bottom. With a 60mm hang over so the rain can't come back up, flashing to keep the moisture out. Tex screws every rise on the the outsides so the wind can't pick it up and rip it off. Up turning the outrigger ends so when the wind blows, it can't run up and over into the purlins/walls. Tex screws have a rubber on the bottom of the head so when screwed in, it makes it water tight from rain. When finding your 60mm off the fascia for the roofing over hang, put you square on the rise, rule on the fascia and push down so the roofing is hard flush on the purlin giving you a true reading. Don't use pencil either, the lead in the pencil can rust it-go figure.

Fascia re-aligned, mesh laid 11/09/2012

Fascia's re-aligned, netting laid down and building paper measured and cut for the next step. Fascia's that hadn't been fitted had to be measured out with the slope of the roof taken into consideration for when the corners butt into one another. But first things first, we went through and ran our eye down the facia's that have been put up and had to take out the dips/raises out. To do this, we had to pull out the nails and use a clamp (with a bit of off cut wood) was placed between the clamp and fascia with the other end of the clamp sitting on the blocking (between purlins) and was wound up/down to which way we needed. Then nails were tacked in, one above another for extra strength.

Using the drop saw, the saw had to be titled on a 45' angle for them to butt into eachother and 5' on the drop to compensate for the slant of the roof. The mesh went up, rolled from side to side, they were stapled down to the purlins. At the ends by of the roof, it was stapled 4-5 time in one spot. Then nipped off just after the intertwins then folded back and stappled again. That way, there were no fraley bits to snap anything on. The next step was to put the roof on but due to poor weather conditions, the building  paper and iron had to wait till a later date.

Fly rafter/Facia 5/09/2012

Today we had to dodgem bloack our side of the house where the purlins hung over. They had to be measure 305mm off the wall so we set up a string line from end to end. This giving us a straight line, we marked it off so we knew where to cut the excess purlin off and also where our fly rafter would sit flush. We took the string down and with clamps, we went along tacking our fly rafter in. The clamps were used for more stability and held the fly rafter hard against the purlin when nailing in. Oncwe we had that flush and tacked in, we then went along with a skill saw and cut off the excess purlins, making it flush with the fly rafter. We measured out every 1200mm on the top plate for where bracing would go . We also ran extra bracing under the purlins that hung over for that bit more of extra support.

 

With all the purlins on top of the rafters/trusses now doubled nailed, a team of 2 people went around drilling a blue screw (90mm) into each cross over section anchoring it down properly. Another fly rafter was run on the front side of the house under the out riggers. Dodgem blocked and nailed in as the went along making sure it was dead straight. Same was done for the back of the house too. With the whole house now had there fly rafters on, the next step was to put up our facia boards. The facia is just to be tacked in at first.

-cut both ends of the facia at 45' angle
-depending on the board and join, some had to have 5' tilte adding on
-paint each end with a sealant paint
-using your ruler, place it into the pre slotted gap giving for the saffit to slide into. Letting a mil or 2 of room for movement
-using galvinised nail, tack the facia to the fly rafter/purlins/blocking
going along tacking it every 600-800mm to stop it from saging

Some places needed more nails than others because of the natural bows that some had in them. Running our eye down the line, we could see the dips and with a clamp, we took the nails out, raised/lowered and re nailed, holding the facia in place. We now had 3/4s of it done by the end of the day.

T-sections/Purlins 29/08/2012

T-sections were made between the end of the tailings. Measuring between, nailing into place on the sides then measuring the gap in between and placing a jack stud in, forming a T section. Giving the truss more support to the top plate and so they dont just roll over onto eachother. Its also used for when the weather boards go up, they have something to anchor too. Once the whole back of the house was done, we then went to the front of the house and made the outriggers. They tacked up boards at each end of the house, making sure they were bang on. A string line then went up and packers put under the string line so they could dodgem as they went along. One by one they put the outriggers up, using there dodgems as they went along. As these went up, 3 of us measured out the gap between each outrigger, cut a board to size and nailed in with the gun. Sitting them under the outriggers themselves. Like a T section but without the jack stud.

While we were doing this, a team started marking out to where the purlins would sit on top of the rafters and truss. Reading off the plans, they went along with a long tape, measuring and scoring where they were to sit. Once done, the purlins were lifted onto the roof. Row by row, Lyndsey took a team and the tacked them in. Before nailing them home the measurements were checked all around the house. Cos once the purlins are nailed in, itl be hard to shift the house if anything was off.
During the whole day, more scaffolding was bought onto site. Teams of 3-4 took turns and the scaffolding people taught us how to erect it. By the end of the day, the whole house was incased with scaffolding upto the roof.