Eve Flashings 5/12/2012

With shortened bits of flashings made especially for the eves, we had to look at how we were to cut and set them so the sat flush up against the facia (all bits like this arent the same so thinking on top of your head is needed) We had to measure down how far and how much along then put that onto the flashing and check it out. Once done, we had to run a flat flashing from the top of the roof down to the bottom (new regulation) this stops any moisture from entering. Before it was lifted up, the tex screws had to come out where it was going to sit. Liftinf it up (being careful) we laid it down and went through and marked where the tex screws were to go. 100mm regulations for the over/under lap

Roof Flashings 5/12/2012

The flashings on thew side of the roof had to go up, as well as the capping the eve. Lifting the flashings up, taking into contrast that the flashings are thin and flimsy and to take very good care lifting them. We got the first one up, sat it on the edge and pushed it 100mm over the front. We then measured 60mm back on the top, leaving the side clear, we cut the top part off. With the side now sticking 60mm out, we measured back 30mm and bent it so when the flashing was pushed back into place the flashing lip would sit flush against the facia. The next peice we lapped under the first so when it rains the water will run down not getting trapped or sepping under one another (100mm minimum required). We left the bottom of the flashing free so when we put the spouting up, we can contrats on how to cut and bend the angles. It was all screwed down with hex tex screws with a rubber ring under so when drilled down, the rubber ring will sell it from any moisture. Silicone will so be put in the barge where the flashings meet

Window Strips 3/12/2012

Strips of weather board with a half round curve at the top were ripped at 43mm, they had to be checked out into the weather and lay flush uo against the window frames. Laying the strips next to the window frame, a nail was tacked in at the bottom to keep it still. An off cut of weather board no shorter than 300m was used to mark out the measurements. Laying the off cut flat against the wall and hard up against the strip, we marked from top to bottom (end product looks like a lightning bolt) The little straight bits were then cut with a jigsaw, the long angle parts were cut with the band saw. Wed then go back and sit it into position, sitting it flush and marking out where it would check into the window flashing and flush with the bottom. Both sides of the window had to be done all around the house. Doing this will stop rain and moisture entering from the side of the windows.

Weather Boards 20/11/2012

With all the windows in, checked for plumb and square. The foam around the edges had been put in, we now had to go on to the outside of the windows and fit the flashings. The weather board had to be cut to size as the plans say. We then measured out the top of the window and cut the flashing to hang 40mm over each side. We then measured and marked on the piece of weather board so it looks like a big T. Cutting it with a skill saw (on a 5degree angle for the flashing) Once cut, we took it up and tried the flashing in and sat in place, right on the mark first time. A piece of building wrap was then taped to where the flashing would sit so if rain did some how get behind the board, it would run down the building wrap and onto the flashing. We then painted the cut areas to seal them from moisture then nailed into place. With the flashing done, we could then do the rest to the top of the soffit. On the side of the house made it abit more difficult. We measured 150mm in between each board, so we set our squares at 150mm, and slide it along till we butted into the soffit, this giving us a reading as to where the new board would finish. We'd then measure to where the top of the board butts into the soffit and that gap would mean the angle we would cut on and the over all length was measured to. So it could of gone 2100mm long, 1500mm along till the top of the board butts in, then we would cut from there down onto the angle into the corner of the board. We done both sides of the house right upto the soffit, then moved around to the back to do the last few boards there too. Leaving just the front to put a couple more rows of boards up. We had a crew of 3 coming behind us and drilling, then nailing home the boards. And team was puting up more cavity batterns with others following behind and putting up the etapan.

Little Jobs To Be Had 13/11/2012

We put foam in between the windows frames and wall frames. This stops any drafts coming through and when the expanding foam is emitted, it wont make a mess and go everywhere. Cutting to length, then butting the foam string in with the end of the ruler going 50mm in making sure no foam had brakes in it. All windows were done then re-checked. It also gave us another chance to make sure the windows were plumb and flush. The glaziers came in again and finished off the rest of the windows. With the big window/door frame that is going in, all the cuts had to be re-sealed with paint again. The frame was then held into place and screw tacked in. The back door/laundry door had to have dwangs put directly under the door itself, giving it more strenght and to stop warping and weak points. Spare joists were cut to size then nailed to the outside boundary joist. Some of the etapan went up today. The location was measured then 1omm either side was taken off. The etapan was then cut to size and holes were drilled for where the nails were to go. Top flashing were also measured and cut for all the windows, ready to be nailed on.

Checking Windows 12/11/2012

 

Had to check over the windows to make sure they were plumband the gaps on the sides were even. Using a spirit level, we soon found one that was out by a bit at the top and had a bow in it. The screws that were tacked in had to come out, where 2 spirit levels were laid on the sides, new holes were drilled and re screwed. The top had packers pushed in to take the out. One by one all windows were straightend and corrected. The main window/door frame was lifted into place today, but soon found we had to make an alteration. A strip of the floor board had to be stripped back, then the floor joist, boundary joist and weather board, had to be shaved back 50mm. The boundary joist was cut with a skill saw, the floor joist had several cuts put in to depth then chiseled back and made flat. The frame was then put into place to check if anymore needed taking out, all was right.

Installing Windows 7/11/2012

 

With the flashings all installed in every sill, rippings cut to length and nailed to the outside tops of the window cavertys. We now had the day to install every window frame in the house, thus making it 1 step closer to being lockable over the christmas holidays. The windows plan sheet was looked over to make sure nothing was left out and to get the right window in the right hole. It took a team of 4-5 people to install just 1 window. And once all the windows were up, we could then finish off the outside weather boards and soffit.

-window lifted and put into place
-clamps were used to pull the bottom in hard and flush
-with 2 rulers, the window had to sit 10mm out so they butt in flush with the gibb
-once worked out that the window sat evenly in the hole, the bottom right hand was drilled and screwed (leaving the screw tacked in)
-a spirit level was used to make sure it was plumb and flush
-making sure it was 10mm out in every corner
-screws were placed in every corner

Not every window went in as planned, some flashings had there cornners re-trimmed because the window frame would catch on them. Any cutting to the window frame itself had to be painted and sealed to prevent it from soaking up any moisture. Making sure the window was straight and plumb was a very big factor. A window that is off is very easy to spot from a far, one by one the window frames were installed. With Cam have the final check over before each window was screwed home.