Little Jobs To Be Had 13/11/2012

We put foam in between the windows frames and wall frames. This stops any drafts coming through and when the expanding foam is emitted, it wont make a mess and go everywhere. Cutting to length, then butting the foam string in with the end of the ruler going 50mm in making sure no foam had brakes in it. All windows were done then re-checked. It also gave us another chance to make sure the windows were plumb and flush. The glaziers came in again and finished off the rest of the windows. With the big window/door frame that is going in, all the cuts had to be re-sealed with paint again. The frame was then held into place and screw tacked in. The back door/laundry door had to have dwangs put directly under the door itself, giving it more strenght and to stop warping and weak points. Spare joists were cut to size then nailed to the outside boundary joist. Some of the etapan went up today. The location was measured then 1omm either side was taken off. The etapan was then cut to size and holes were drilled for where the nails were to go. Top flashing were also measured and cut for all the windows, ready to be nailed on.

Checking Windows 12/11/2012

 

Had to check over the windows to make sure they were plumband the gaps on the sides were even. Using a spirit level, we soon found one that was out by a bit at the top and had a bow in it. The screws that were tacked in had to come out, where 2 spirit levels were laid on the sides, new holes were drilled and re screwed. The top had packers pushed in to take the out. One by one all windows were straightend and corrected. The main window/door frame was lifted into place today, but soon found we had to make an alteration. A strip of the floor board had to be stripped back, then the floor joist, boundary joist and weather board, had to be shaved back 50mm. The boundary joist was cut with a skill saw, the floor joist had several cuts put in to depth then chiseled back and made flat. The frame was then put into place to check if anymore needed taking out, all was right.

Installing Windows 7/11/2012

 

With the flashings all installed in every sill, rippings cut to length and nailed to the outside tops of the window cavertys. We now had the day to install every window frame in the house, thus making it 1 step closer to being lockable over the christmas holidays. The windows plan sheet was looked over to make sure nothing was left out and to get the right window in the right hole. It took a team of 4-5 people to install just 1 window. And once all the windows were up, we could then finish off the outside weather boards and soffit.

-window lifted and put into place
-clamps were used to pull the bottom in hard and flush
-with 2 rulers, the window had to sit 10mm out so they butt in flush with the gibb
-once worked out that the window sat evenly in the hole, the bottom right hand was drilled and screwed (leaving the screw tacked in)
-a spirit level was used to make sure it was plumb and flush
-making sure it was 10mm out in every corner
-screws were placed in every corner

Not every window went in as planned, some flashings had there cornners re-trimmed because the window frame would catch on them. Any cutting to the window frame itself had to be painted and sealed to prevent it from soaking up any moisture. Making sure the window was straight and plumb was a very big factor. A window that is off is very easy to spot from a far, one by one the window frames were installed. With Cam have the final check over before each window was screwed home.

Windows And Flashings 6/11/2012

 

The flashings had to be installed today and the windows fitted and nailed because on thursday, the glasziers were coming in to fi the glass. So cam pulled a bunch of us a side and showed us how to cut and install a flashing for a window sill. Once done, teams of us went off and done our own.

-measure 45mm in and mark all the way down
-cut the 2 angle's (cutting the bottom strand off)
-using the bending pliers, set the grip and bend so the cut pieces are nice and straight when butted into eachother
-cutting the tips on a slight angle so they wont catch when installing
-do the same as down the other end
-cut a sliver out of the inside of the weather board so the flashing can be pushed through and sit flush
-once pushed in, sit the 2 bits of timber (nailed together for the window to sit on)
-when sitting flush, pack out 10mm, drill and nail with clouts

Flashings are designed to catch the moisture from under the window and stop water from sitting and creating mould/dampness. Every window that had etapan under it had to be packed out 10mm off the timber. Other windows had to sit flush. Silicone was put in the corners of the flashings to make them air tight and make sure no drafts come through because you can loose alot of heat through your windows themselves. Clouts are used because of there flats heads and sit hard against the tin. Windows started to be installed, rippings were cut and nailed on the outside, flush with the top of the windows sill.

Weather Boards/Electric Box 17/10/2012

Measurements were marked on the edge of the weather boards, 400mm in and 400mm up, creating a T section and giving us an indication as to where the nails will go. Once drilled, nails were hammerd in then nail punched below the surface. This was done on every edge and down every stud, drilled, nailed, nail punched. The holes had to be drilled because the nail itself would put stress on the weather board (very hard and durable) and could fracture the board itself. Cavity batterns were cut and nailed to the underside of certain windows for where the cladding is to sit. The cavity batterns were set 600mm apart with ones on either end. A spirit level wsas used to keep plumb.

The electrical box had to be installed. With a cavity in the wall, we put the electric box in there and it fitted flush. What we had to do was get 4 bits of steel-cut, bend and pop rivet to the box but making sure it was tight and plumb. Cutting one corner back leaving the top on, will give us an overlapping effect. Drilling then pop rivet it into place (placing silicone in between) Once all riveted on, silicone was smeared to keep any gaps/drafts out. We placed the box into its cavity hole, drilled and nailed to the studs. The weather boards around it had to be cut to certain lenghts. With rippings taken out to sit the weather boards flush with the box.

Once the whole back of the house had 3/4s of the weather boards up, we went around and punched all the nails in so they weren't exposed. Then going over the holes with exterior putty. So when it came time to paint the weather boards, it will look smooth and un-marked. The timber for around the bottom of the showers where the gibb meets the shower base had to be cut and fit. Give them something to into later on down the track. Also where the door go, boards had to run vertical so they can screw there hinge's in.

We still have 1/4 of the weather boards to go up (top boards that butt into the soffit) The cladding boards had been made but everything waits for the windows to go up.